Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Easy Care Perennial with Standout Foliage

Yellow Comfry - Symphytum grandiflorum 'Goldsmith'
"Goldsmith" can be easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Mine grows in average soils, eastern exposure in my zone 6 garden. It is somewhat drought tolerance and can do reasonably well in dryish, shady locations. Many of the comfeys spread by creeping rhizomes however ‘Goldsmith’ remains controlled to one spot. Easily propagated by root cuttings or division. Trim foliage as needed to shape plant. Cutting back stems promptly after flowering may encourage a rebloom. I have seen no serious insect or disease problems. It has been said that slugs and snails may attack the foliage, but they never have visited my plant.


Tuesday, July 21, 2009


Eleven Plants That Will Not Disappoint Your Garden



Picea pungens 'Globosa'

1.FERNSPRAY FALSE CYPRESS -Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Filicoides'
2. SIBERIAN CYPRESS - Microbiota decussate
3. HINOKI FALSE CYPRESS - Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Kosteri'
4. CENTER GLOW NINEBARK -Physocarpus opulifolius 'Center Glow'
5. HELMOND PILLAR BARBERRY -Berberis thunbergii 'Helmond Pillar'
6. KNOCK OUT® ROSE -Rosa x 'Radyod'
7. SNOW QUEEN OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA -Hydrangea quercifolia 'Snow Queen'
8. WEIGELIA - Weigela x 'My Monet'
9. HYDRANGEA Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight‘
10. DWARF GLOBE BLUE SPRUCE - Picea pungens 'Globosa'
11. ABELIA - Abelia 'Rose Creek' Abelia

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Plant Combinations

Getting the right plants together in you landscape is not easy. Right amount of sun, right soil conditions, and the hardest part " looking good together". Japanese Maples are easy to grow in full sun as long as you keep them watered during dry spells in the summer. This is Acer palmatum "Shaina" a smaller cultivar that holds the red color all summer. Under planted is Iris pallida "Variegata" which also does well in full sun. Late in the sping the Iris will bloom a grape soda flower that last for a few weeks. But even after the blooms are gone these plants look great togehter.

Monday, November 19, 2007

Making The Cut - Pruning Trees

Red Maple Bark



Pruning the trees in your yard does not have to be a difficult process. However bad pruning is done regularly by some professionals and many unknowing homeowners. Following a these few simple steps will keep your trees healthy and growing strong for a very long time.

Timing - For deciduous trees like the maple in the picture above (ones that drop their leaves), it is usually best to prune them during the dormant season, - late fall to early spring. If you have a flowering tree, timing is also important. Dogwood trees for example bloom in the spring and should be pruned right after they are done blooming (late spring). These trees form their flowers on "old wood" or on the growth of the previous season. So pruning them too late in the year, like in July, will remove the flower buds for next year. Other examples of plants that should not be pruned after July are Crab apples, Fringe tree, Flowering cherry and Hawthorn. Trees that bloom in the summer, like Crape Myrtle should be pruned in the early spring, because they will form their buds on the new spring growth .

Tools - Sharp clean tools are very important. A great tool for branches up t0 2 inches thick, is the folding hand saw. The blades are specially designed to cut fast and because of their design, they do not clog. They weigh only 5 ounces, which is much easier and safer to handle than a chain saw.
Smaller braches, 1/2" - 3/4" can be easily prunned with sharp hand prunners.


Technique - Do not be in a hurry. Start off by looking at the entire branch and try to imagine what the tree will look like once you have cut it off. Remember once you cut the branch, you can not reattach it.


Removing a branch is a 3 step process.



When removing a branch with a saw, first cut about 1" into the branch on the underside about a foot from the area where the final cut will be made. The 2nd cut should be made a few inches above the first. This cut should remove the branch. Finally, cut the remaining stub off cleanly about 1/2" near the main trunk at the branch collar.
Pruning in this fashion will prevent the bark from tearing due to the weight of the branch, and will result in the smallest possible pruning wound.


It is best to limit you pruning to removal of a few branches. Remove no more than 1/3 of the branches. More branches gone means more leaves gone and leaves are what produces the food for the tree to grow - Photosynthesis. Also trees should never be topped. Topping is the radical removal of branches at the top of the tree, sometimes done to reduce the size of an overgrown tree. Topping is not healthy for the tree. Excessive removal of branches will result in excessive growth near the cut part of the branch. This new growth is weak, resulting in new branches that can easily break, or need pruned again next year.


Cut the branch at the collar.

Do not cut the branch too close to the trunk. And do not cut the branch and leave a long stump. So where is the right place to cut off a branch and does it really matter? If you cut the branch about 1/2" -3/4" from the trunk, just on the other side of a small collar of bark, the tree will heal the cut all by itself. However if you leave a long stump, the stump will decay and it will take a longer time to heal, or worse, it will rot and insects will invade the cut. Similarly if you cut too close to the trunk, the branch will not heal properly. The tree probably won't die, but it will effect the overall health of the tree.


In the past we were taught , all cuts should be covered with a black pruning seal. More recent studies have revealed that this practice is no longer necessary. It was thought that sealing the cut would help the branch heal better, however if you cut the branch properly the branch will heal naturally.


Branch Collar



Trees are important to a healthy environment, and also create a beautiful landscape. Take a few moments to find out how to prune them properly and they will last a very long time.

Friday, October 12, 2007

Picea orientalis 'Skylands'



Oriental Spruce


The Oriental Spruce is a conifer that makes the average garden look great. In most cases conifers are evergreens, however there are a few exceptions . As winter approaches and leaves drop, the visual interest in the garden is directed towards evergreens. The oriental spruce in one such plant. There are a variety of shapes and sizes, however the cultivar, Skylands, is one of my favorites

Before selecting any plant for you yard it is important to know the mature size and the plants cultural requirements. Too many times we buy plants with limited knowledge about the plant and then plant the tree or shrub in a location that has building or overhead limitations. Most conifers including this one enjoy full sun. My recommendation is to grow this in a location that gets about 6 -7 hours of sun with a little afternoon shade. I have found that 10 or more hours of sun may cause the needles to brown a little. Something that is not uncommon with yellow needled conifers. This spruce is planted in a bed that is mounded with 3-6 inches of soil. I do this because mounding the soil allows for better drainage. The soil does not have to be rich top soil any soil free from clay will work. Also a planting bed that has a slight mound has more visual interest. This tree is classified as a zone 5. This is a slow growing conifer that will reach 10 feet x 4 feet in ten years. Its ultimate mature height is 35 feet x 12 feet. This tree is a good choice as a specimen, or for smaller gardens where a tall conifer is wanted without giving over too much horizontal space.


You are not limited to the cultivar "Skylands". Some of the other cultivars you may find in a nursery or garden center are Picea orientalis Nana, Aurea, Connecticut Turnpike, Bergman Gem, Acrocona .