Hypertufa Wall Planter

Hypertufa is lightweight pourus material used to make many cool garden projects. Looks like stone but lighter, a workable material allowing you to express your creativity without much artistic talent.   To make hypertufa all you need  is:   portland cement , peat moss, perlite water and a little creativity!

Succulents are a great addition to this unique planter 

I saw this planter on Pinterest and decided to make one to display on my garden fence. Below are my instructions for making this Hypertufa Wall Planter.

Things you will need to gather before you start

• Perlite
• Sphagnum Peat Moss or potting soil
• Portland Cement
• Water
• 2 Kitchen size garbage bags
• Small wire brush
• 2  wire coat hanger
• Dish Pan ( plastic)  or something to mix your ingredients in
• Rubber gloves, Particle mask, Safety glasses
• Cardboard, and rectangular plant tray (used to hold annuals at garden center)  

 Find a place that you can get messy, preferable outside.  For best results it is best if the temperature is above 50 f when making any Hypertufa.   

Cover you work space with a cheap vinyl table cloth.  The  plastic plant tray will be your mold for the wall planter. Since the tray has open spaces you will need to cut cardboard to fit on the inside of the tray.  Secure with tape. Next cover the plant tray / cardboard with a kitchen size garbage bag. This step will make it easier to remove the hypertufa ( tufa) the next day.   You are ready to mix your ingredients.

I recommend that you always work safely - Put on your gloves, dusk mask and any eye protection. Wet cement can irritate your skin, and the dust is not healthy for your lungs. 
Use a 2 quart container, (from the deli )  to measure the ingredients. The dishpan will be used as a mixing bowl.  Place the following dry ingredients into the dish pan:   1 1/2 portland cement, 1 1/2  perlite, 1 1/2  peat moss or potting soil)  then  MIX together completely.

Fill 2 qt  container with water (you may use more or less, but is a good est.)  Then add small quantities of water to the dry mix , mix with you hands until you get to the consistency of ( uncooked )  meatloaf mix.  When you hold a ball of the mix in your hand it should stick together. If it is too wet, then just add a little peat/portland cement. 

Take you time, mix well. Once the mixing is complete it is time to place the mix in your mold.  Placing the tufa mix in the mold is best done by taking tufa mix and  making hamburger patty shape. Place each one in the mold until the bottom is covered. Press all hamburger patties together so that are a solid mass of tufa in the mold! About 1 1/5 "- 2"  thick .
While you are putting the mix in the mold you may want to add some reinforcement wire.  Cut the  coat hangers  into two or three   approx.  6” pieces. Place in the wet mix to add support.  Keep about a cup of the wet tufa mix for later


Keep in mind that you will need to hang this on a wall, and it will be heavy. The easiest way to hang would be to drill one or two hole about 3 in apart near the top of the planter. This can be done after the wall planter is removed from the mold ( next day ) or make a hole now with a pencil ( or anything pointy) while the mix is wet.   Another way to hang -  use wire coat hanger ( cut to about 8")  bend in in half, making a loop. Place the open end into the wet mix, allowing about 1" of  the loop end to be exposed.  

Next take the 6” terracotta pot ( or two smaller pots) and embed into the cement, near the bottom of the wall planter. Add a little mix (cup from above)  inside the pot to cover the entire back inside of the pot.  You can also  place a small decorative stone below the base of the terracotta pot ( into the wet mix) to help support the pot from the bottom.

Almost done -  Smooth the top side and the corners of the planter with a small hand trowel. Sorry I forgot to tell you a trowel is needed.   If you want to decorate the front of the wall planter consider adding some broken tiles, smooth stones, or whatever top surface. Simply press into the wet tufa.  Wipe the tiles clean after you have completed your design.   

 Finally  cover with a plastic garbage bag, twist the end of the bag.  Allow the planter to harden for 30 to 48 hrs.  Once hardened enough to move, remove from the bag, then carefully turn upside down and remove from the mold.  To make it look like stone take the wire brush and rough up the sides. Spray with water and place back in the garbage back for 2-3 weeks. 
It will take that long for your wall planter ( the cement) to cure. During this time the planter  will  become hard and all the ingredients will bond together
Please note during this time Handle with care, the planter is still fragile.

Once cured, rinse again and it is time to plant.  - Enjoy

Sucessful Succulent Gardening

 

 

Succulents seem to be the new big plant trend. They are brightly colored, easy to grow, and very forgiving plants -- why not!  Visit any greenhouse or big box store, and you will find a large display of succulents in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.   It is very hard to walk past them without placing a few in my cart. Actually more than a few make it home to my garden.  After much trial and much more error (resulting in a few dead plants),  I am sharing what has worked for me.




SOIL

Succulents grow best in well draining soil. Packaged potting soil(less) mix contains mostly peat moss and not my first choice.  Many of the less expensive bagged potting soils typically  hold too much water for good succulent root growth.  One alternative is to purchase Cactus and Succulent mix or a Bonsai mix, containing a grittier list of ingredients.  A little more expensive,  but a good soil mix is the first step to healthy plants. If you have a large number of containers and do not mind mixing the ingredients, my preference  is AL's Gritty Mix. You cannot buy this bagged in a garden center, rather the ingredients are purchased and mixed.  Details can be found on the main page of my blog or search the Garden Web Forum - Container Gardening .  The main ingredients are:  pine bark fines,  Gran-it-grit (grower size chicken grit), Turface MVP (used for baseball fields).  Al provides a great deal of information on why this mix works so well in the many posts he has written on the forum.
Using one of these soil mixes requires that initially you monitor your watering more closely until you  find the best schedule for your plants in your location.


 



Sometimes called the flapjack plant -  Kalanchoe luciae

WATER

If you use  a well draining  soil mix,  watering will be easy.  There is a common misconception that succulents do not need to be watered much.  Most succulents will tolerate occasional neglect, however most do not  "thrive" in a drought-like situation. On the other hand, if you are too attentive, and tend to water frequently,  the roots will stay too wet, roots will rot and you will eventually have a new addition to the compost pile.   The best approach is to water well and then allow to dry for a short time, and then water well again. 
Sunlight, containers and soil mix can impact the time in between watering. Clay pots are a great choice, because tend to dry out little faster than a ceramic or a plastic pot.  Because many of my succulents are outside during the summer, I like to use hypertufa pots. Not sure what that is - read about them on this blog.   Using containers with a drainage hole(s)  lets the water drain better, and is my preference when selecting a container. Planting succulents in tea cups, mason jars and old shoes is not a good choice for a long term container, however they will work if you add a layer of gravel and are cautious not to over water.

Container of succulents growing in a small garden center in California.

 

 



Succulents display at Longwood Gardens





EXPOSURE / LIGHT

Succulents can be placed in two categories Hardy (zones 5,4,and 3)  and Soft (Non Hardy zones 9,10,and 11).  Much of what is written here can apply to both, however my focus will be on those more tender plants that we are growing indoors. 

Succulents like a growing environment that has good quality sunlight.  Just like any group of plants not all in that group  require the same amount of light. Succulents tolerate  conditions ranging from bright filtered light to full sun.    I have  had the best success with placing my plants at a window facing  south, east and west ( in that order)  getting  about 5- 6 hours  of sunlight. If your plant does  not get enough sun,  they will demonstrate their displeasure by stretching their stems for more light.  As the temperature outside warm , I will  move my containers outdoors. In my garden - zone 6b Pennsylvania,  I place my succulents in a location with morning sun, or afternoon sun, and hopefully some mid day shade.  Making the transition to outdoor sun should be gradual, ( maybe on the porch first). This will prevent any leaf burn as you move them to their final outdoor location.  It should be understood that you may  have different light challenges and requirements for other parts of the country.

Many Soft or Non Hardy Succulents ( i.e Echeveria), can also be taken out of the container and planted directly in the ground.  Not a new thing for those gardening in Southern California, but I encourage anyone in colder zones to try it out. For years I have planted Echeveria in my garden next to my perennials and annuals. They are extremely tough plants, will tolerate lots of sun and occasional neglect, and  the plants push out lots of babies increasing my count each year.  They are very easy to dig up in the fall and move indoors as the temps begin to fall. 


In the fall as the temperature drops below 45degrees Fahrenheit potted non hardy succulents must be moved inside.  

A single Echeveria planted in Hypertufa container. .

 

 

Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’

 

FERTILIZER
In most growing situations we will grow succulents in containers with a soilless mix that provides little or no nutrients.  It's not unusual for gardeners to over fertilize their container plants.  We are sold super fertilizers to stimulate growth and  grow enormous flowers.  More is not better with succulents. Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen blends, increase leaf and root rot problems. It also builds up in the soil interfering with the uptake of water.  Succulents are efficient growing plants, they will grow well will less fertilizer. Begin by using a fertilizer  that has low N-P-K . If your mixing a water based fertilizer, mix it at 1/4 to 1/3  of the  manufacturers recommended  strength.   Frequent watering with very diluted fertilizer is preferred.



http://georgeweigel.net/

Repurposing a fire pit bowl as a planter with some paint and a few drainage holes drilled. 



I have recently tried a  new technique for growing these tough plants.  Below is a photo of  succulent moss ball I recently made.  It is called Kokadama, and is made using soil,  a sheet of  green moss and twine.  The plants were taken from cuttings, and I expect with proper care will root easily in the ball of soil and moss.

 

Succulent cuttings planted in a moss ball.

I still have lots to learn.  Like many gardeners I do this best by trial and error. However I do love to search the internet for great photos and  easy to read information. I found this site to be very helpful, and easy to navigate.  http://mountaincrestgardens.com/soft-succulents/

 

One final thing, you are welcome to share my photos, please link back to my blog, do not however copy and use for your site without my permission.

 

 

Concrete Containers for Plants or Fruit



Making plant containers and garden art has been a passion of mine for years. I have crafted a variety of hypertufa and concrete containers for use indoors and in the landscape. Some examples  of those   containers are posted here in my blog.  I must admit creating your own container can be as much fun as planting them.

The main ingredient when making these containers is Portland cement. Working with portland cement can be challenging at times. When making  hypertufa pots (photo below) , you must carefully add perlite, peat moss and just the right about of water. Then apply the mix to the mold .  

You can see the 3 ingredients, portland cement, perlite, peat moss,  in the hypertufa pot above.

The goal with hypertufa is to make a rough, stone like container.

 I have recently used a new product called ShapeCrete to create this irregular shaped container or bowl. ShapeCrete  has properties that allows the ingredients, when mixed with water, to be formed over or inside molds much easier that I have experienced when making other hypertufa or portland and sand containers. 

Once mixed with water, ShapeCrete can be molded with your hands and then formed into a thin layer and applied over the rubber ball to create a unique container.  If mixed properly, the ShapeCrete does not run down the side of the mold.

Remove from the mold the next day and then keep moist in garbage bag for about 1-2 weeks to allow it to properly cure. I mixed a little black cement dye with this batch, to make the color a little darker. Not sure I added enough to make a big change in the color.
Although not a necessary step, I will eventually apply a cement our grout sealer for mainly aesthetic reasons to see if it brings out more color in this container.

I eventually removed the fruit and created a planter with a variety of succulents. 

If you like succulent container gardens, check out this article in Penn Live  http://blog.pennlive.com/gardening/2015/08/lets_see_you_kill_these_tough.html


If you have questions  you can post to the blog and I will reply. 
Mike
 

Gardening in Containers

Lack of space in the garden should not stop your passion for purchase.  Your patio, deck or porch are perfect homes for beautiful container gardens.  Pots can be purchased in many sizes, shapes and materials and can be wonderful places for growing anything from vegetables to conifers or perennials.  Best of all you can grow plants that aren't hardy in your zone, because you can move pots to a sheltered location during cold weather

Below are just a few container Garden Design Ideas that have caught my eye.

Longwood Gardens Kennet Square PA

Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square PA



Longwood Gardens Kennett Square PA



In the Conservatory at Longwood Gardens

 

Denver Botanical Gardens

Container success starts with good soil.

Soil (Soilless mix) I use in every container 
Good container soil is critical to successful root growth in containers. I  always use a good quality soilless mix in my containers. Don't use a cheap brand or regular garden soil because they will compress and make root growth difficult over time.  
I typically make my own mix. It works extremely well and the same soil can be used for a few years in the same pot.  Most important this mix allows for the best drainage and root growth.   Al’s Gritty Mix  is in my opinion the best soilless mix you can use.  Information on how to make it and why it works so well can be found on the from the Garden Web Forum (Houze).  You will need to assemble this fantastic mix.  (and yes it is worth the extra time and effort) .

Al's Gritty Mix - Equal parts by volume: Pine or fir bark in 1/8 - 3/8" size (no fines), Turface MVP, Crushed granite (Gran-I-Grit, in grower size) or #2 cherrystone  and gypsum.

 

My favorite Hypertufa container. Planted with a mini Hynoki Cypress, sempervirums  and Elfin Thyme.

 

Something new - Succulents in Concrete and Hypertufa containers  hanging in my sunroom.

 

Container of dwarf conifers and a sedum on my deck.

 

Dwarf Hynoki , Weigela Fine Wine and Coleus on my deck

 One last container tip -

"Its a myth that a layer of gravel or foam peanuts (inside the bottom of an individual pot) beneath the soil improves container drainage. Instead of extra water draining immediately into the gravel, the water "perches" or gathers in the soil just above the gravel. The water gathers until no air space is left. Once all the available soil air space fills up, then excess water drains into the gravel below. So gravel in the bottom does little to keep soil above is being saturated by overwatering."   

the University Of Illinois Extension

 

One of my Hypertufa container which featured in garden article by George Weigel, for the Patriot News, Harrisburg.   http://georgeweigel.net/

 

Bonsai at Longwood Gardens

 

Unique planting on a slate at the Kral Garden in Rochester NY

http://conifersociety.org/blog/welcome-kral-garden/

Container full of succulents

Hosta at Carolyn's Shade Garden  

http://carolynsshadegardens.com/

 

Swathmore College, Swathmore PA

 

David Culp's Garden Brandywine

 http://www.davidlculp.com/layered_garden.htm

 

Enjoy your patio, deck or porch this summer by planting a few containers, and don't let lack of space dampen you  passion for purchase.



 

Gardening is like Therapy and You Get Hypertufa

Gardening has a way of calming the mind, reducing the stress of the day, and exercising those muscles that were idle because you sat in front of the computer all day.  The collection of busy thoughts running around inside my head somehow settles when I am in my garden.  Whether it is pulling  weeds, deadheading flowers or just cutting grass,  an afternoon working in my yard  can leave me feeling physically exhausted, but pleasantly  relaxed.
 

 
There is some discussion that  It’s in the dirt ! More specific, a strain of bacterium in  the soil - "Mycobacterium vaccae, has been found to trigger the release of serotonin, which in turn elevates mood and decreases anxiety".   

 As much as I like  working  in my garden (in the dirt) , I enjoy making accouterments  for my garden.  I have constructed  wooden planters,  trellis's and  pergolas and a crazy garden gate but  making  hypertufa  is much more fun and does not require a circular saw.  Mixing  up the ingredients is like making a cake.  Making hypertufa containers does not require artistic talent, however  it will help you  find your creative side.   And the end result is a unique container and one more  reason  (like you need one) to buy plants.

So why do people enjoy making these stone like pots?  You buy a few basic ingredients, get a mold at the Dollar Store  and with a little instruction and some water you can create a you own really cool container. The design, size  and shape is up to you.   Although you are not digging in the dirt and  there is no release  of serotonin,  the good feeling comes because the entire  process was done by you. You made it!   



Hypertufa is fun because it does not require you to be a concrete artist.    Google hypertufa  and you will find hundreds of experts and just as  many recipes

 

After making a few of your own  pots you will get the hang of mixing the ingredients.  I tell  my classes  the consistency of the mix after you add water should feel like a  moist meatball (in the bowl!).   As you slowly work the mix into the mold, getting the bubbles out of the mix, also seems to release some of the frustrations from the day!   Removing  the firm but uncured  pot  from the mold,  then carefully working out the rough edges with the flat trowel and wire brush  transforms the concrete pot to an aged stone trough.

I used a childs kick ball as the mold for this pot.

Even if you make a  mistake you have the ability to create something beautiful.   Once when giving a demo at a Garden Expo,  I broke the side of the container (made the day before)  when putting it back into the mold to take it home.  After a few unrepeatable word.  I  took my square trowel  and careful carved the damp Hypertufa, smoothing over the  obvious break.  The pot below,  now has  lowered front ( broken part)  planted with some nice plants  and  I believe it  turned out to be one of my nicest containers.  

http://www.finegardening.com/reader-photo-happy-accident-hypertufa
Fine Gardening Web Site

 

In all my hypertufa classes I  show participants how to use a wire brush and a flat trowel  to  texture the sides of the uncured pot after it is  unmolded  and also what to do to fix broken sides.  

 

Once  the pot has cured for about 2 weeks it is ready to plant.   There are so many choices, however because the  size of the container, plants that remain small grow best. Succulents are the easiest to grow, but conifers and herbs also do well in these containers.  The key to successful containers plants is well drained soil. I use Al's Gritty Mix.


Pots can be made in many sizes and shapes .  Just find a mold and you can create what ever size container you desire. The smaller pots were made using quart nursery pots.

You dont need a large yard,  or big deck, only a small patio  with  a little sun.  You can plant with one or two plants or a  combination of many plants.  If it does not look good one year, you can change it the next.  The containers are easy to weed,  add a little fertilizer and  require regular watering

 .

Even a stay in the hospital can result in a usable mold. Its the small pink rectangular wash container  provide to every patient. 



.

Gardening has a way of calming the mind, reducing the stress of the day, exercising those muscles that were idle because you sat in front of the computer all day.  Making these pots is one more way you can  enjoy the beauty of your garden.
If you have never tried Hypertufa or if you have made a few pots and it did not turn out the way you expected  -  Use my "Hypertufa Instructions" on the blog and try it again.  I made a many  mistakes before I got it right.

Making hypertufa is  just like anything you do in the garden, it takes a little time,  some practice, and patience and the results can be pretty nice. The bonus is that you  will get to plant the container when you are done.  

And it is a great way to spend some time with your friends.